My Small Boat Rigging
When you purchase a small boat and know that you have to do
everything you can to save money to be able to get all the pieces you want, the first thing that most people
figure on is, "I'll do it myself". That's all well and good if you have some mechanical skills, some
tools, and some experience with boats. If any of those elements are missing, save yourself some grief, money,
time, skinned knuckles and mistakes by getting some help from somebody who has what you are missing. In my
case, having been around and owned boats of all sizes all my life, I embarked on my journey with my small boat
one piece at a time.
The results of my quest to assemble my own were: Money spent:
approximately $5500.00 (everything was purchased new). Time rigging the boat: 24 working hours. That included
the purchase, mounting the Mercury motor, (which by the way is heavy), trolling motor, two fish
finders, five cleats, a pedestal seat, fitting and cutting plywood, making trailer adjustments, installing
trailer lights, and scores of other little things that you never think of until you get into the project.
These are things a dealer does for you when you purchase from them, but if you do it yourself, you see what
you're paying a dealer for.
In any case, there is a certain sense of satisfaction
when you rig your own boat, more if you are the type of person who enjoys "projects". I am not one of those. I
did it because I pushed the envelope financially and had to do what I could myself. I was satisfied when I
finished, but not so much that I wouldn't rather somebody else do it. But without further commentary on the
joys and pitfalls of small boat rigging, below are pictures and info on what I did to mine.
The whole package, boat, motor and trailer were
purchase separately at Acdemy Sports. All other elements were purchased there and other places. Be ready to do
some research and not expect store clerks to be able to answer all of your questions.
If you power up your boat with a gas motor, get the newest
one you can afford. I've owned some old motors and while I was glad to have them, I spent countless hours
working on them. After my last boat that sported a 1987, 200 hp Mercury, I could have been a certified antique
motor technician by the time I sold it. Lots of time, money and high blood pressure working on it. Don't get me
wrong. I would rather have an old one than none at all, but the newest you can get will spare you some time,
work and money. My motor on this small Alumacraft boat is a 15 hp. Mercury 4 stroke tiller motor with manual
start. The motor can be converted to elecrtric start. It has a hole in the housing and mounting brackets on the
motor for the conversion should I decide to spent a few hundred bucks and do it.
The big Minn Kota 50 lb thrust trolling motor was a good
decision. I started to get a small one, but the big foot controlled electric motor will move the boat at warp
speed when I want to cover some distance without getting on the gas motor. It will move me upstream against a
considerable current. I had to mount
two pieces of pressure treated lumber to the bow seat of the boat so the motor would drop correctly over the
front of the boat and lock into place. Rigging a small boat requires some unknown processes that you won't know
about until you get into the project. Don't be surprised by anything.
Fish finders are a big deal whatever size or kind of small
boat that you fish from. Rigging a small boatwould not be complete until some kind of fish finder is on board.
Nearly every model now shows bottom contour, detects fish, and shows the surface temp. Anything from handheld
models to high dollar color GPS units are available. A basic model will work for most all small boats fishing
in fresh water. I have a Humminbird 525 on the rear seat of my boat that faces the motor operator for easy
reading while running.
The other Humminbird (565) is on the bow seat with the
transducer mounted to the trolling motor for fine tuning locations while fishing. NOTE: When you buy more than
one fish finder, get the same type that will work from the same transducers. In case one goes bad, the other
can replace it in a pinch.
I have batteries and anchors both fore and aft in my
boat tucked up next to the bow and stern seats. One battery provides power for my rear fish finder and
auxiliary power for anything I might want to hook up to it. It also serves as a backup batter for the
trolling motor. I almost always have both anchors on board. Any time I leave one at home thinking I
won't need it.......you guessed it. These are big 20 lb anchors that will hold the boat securely under
most circumstances including anchored in the Arkansas river. They also help me to stay still in shallow
water where nothing is available to tie off to.
The picture below shows my one mounted seat on
the boat. I chose to put just one on to save some maneuvering
room. When
rigging a small boat,there just is no such thing
as a perfect seat. This one is no exception. I mounted it to be able to have an elevated position
for both still fishing comfort as well as for moving along with my trolling motor, bass fishing. It
is what it is. I have to stumble around it to get from from one end of the boat to the other. It
does not go lower (only higher) than shown for more stability in rough water. People can't sit in
it when I'm running the gas motor. But it's the best all around choice for what I do, and how I
fish. You'll notice I didn't put a deck on this boat. The reason is that in a boat this size and
weight, I generally consider them to be generally unsafe, with centers of gravity that beg people
to fall off the boat. Now I know that from a seated position, a person can bass fish nicely from a
makeshift deck on small jon boats, but with the variety of fishing that I do, I would spend more
time pulling myself back in the boat than fishing. So, this is my mount, such as it
is.
Below are a few miscellaneous items that fill
out my small boat rigging. A paddle (don't ever go out in a small boat without one), net (for
huge fish), a rod holder made from some pvc strapped to a piece of galvnized conduit (this is
attached to the rib of the boat by a few strap ties so it is not permanent), and a fire
extinquisher. An air horn, that completes my legal requirements is in the bilge
area.
By now, in many of these pictures,
you've noticed the bare plywood in the bottom of the boat. I don't mount any more
permanent items in a small boat than I have to and that includes a floor. If you know
you will have tto move around a lot in a jon boat, something flat to walk on is
essential. But going to elaborat measures to permanently install a floor is not
necessary. The two pieces of plywood in the floor of my boat are construction grade
3/4" plywood cut to fit across all but the last rib in each floor section I left the
area between the last rib and seat uncovered so I could tuck in the batteries and a few
other items without them sliding in either direction in the boat. And I did not attach
the plywood to the ribs - just laid it in. Why? Do you ever drop small objects in a
boat? Where do you think they will go? Correct - they will go right down under the
plywood between the ribs. So if needed, I can just lift the plywood to retrieve objects
if necessary. I expect the plywood to last an entire fishing season (about 6 months).
When it deteriorates enough, I'll throw it away and get some new ones.
So, those are the basics
of rigging a small boat in my world. I have it set up for how I fish, and
for my preferences and comfort. But I'm sure you have some different ideas.
Please feel free to let me know about your small boat rigging in the
"Visitor Articles" section to the left. I'd like to see your boats and hear
your ideas.
Here's to your good fishing ~ Mark
Rogers
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© Copyright 2008 - All rights reserved - Mark Rogers -Fishing From Small Boats