My Small Boat Rigging
When you purchase a small boat and know that you have to do everything you can to save
money to be able to get all the pieces you want, the first thing that most people figure on is, "I'll do it
myself". That's all well and good if you have some mechanical skills, some tools, and some experience with
boats. If any of those elements are missing, save yourself some grief, money, time, skinned knuckles and
mistakes by getting some help from somebody who has what you are missing. In my case, having been around and
owned boats of all sizes all my life, I embarked on my journey with my small boat one piece at a time. The
results of my quest to assemble my own were: Money spent: approximately $5500.00 (everything was purchased
new). Time rigging the boat: 24 working hours. That included the purchase, mounting the Mercury motor, (which
by the way is heavy), trolling motor, two fish finders, five cleats, a
pedestal seat, fitting and cutting plywood, making trailer adjustments, installing trailer lights, and scores
of other little things that you never think of until you get into the project. These are things a dealer
does for you when you purchase from them, but if you do it yourself, you see what you're paying a dealer
for.
In any case, there is a certain sense of satisfaction when you rig your
own boat, more if you are the type of person who enjoys "projects". I am not one of those. I did it because I
pushed the envelope financially and had to do what I could myself. I was satisfied when I finished, but not so much
that I wouldn't rather somebody else do it. But without further commentary on the joys and pitfalls of small boat
rigging, below are pictures and info on what I did to mine. The whole
package, boat, motor and trailer were purchase separately at Acdemy Sports. All other elements were purchased there
and other places. Be ready to do some research and not expect store clerks to be able to answer all of your
questions.
Click on pictures for a larger
view
If you power up your boat with a gas motor, get the newest one you can afford. I've owned
some old motors and while I was glad to have them, I spent countless hours working on them. After my last boat
that sported a 1987, 200 hp Mercury, I could have been a certified antique motor technician by the time I
sold it. Lots of time, money and high blood pressure working on it. Don't get me wrong. I would rather have an
old one than none at all, but the newest you can get will spare you some time, work and money. My motor on this
small Alumacraft boat is a 15 hp. Mercury 4 stroke tiller motor with manual start. The motor can be converted
to elecrtric start. It has a hole in the housing and mounting brackets on the motor for the conversion should I
decide to spent a few hundred bucks and do it.
The big Minn Kota 50 lb thrust trolling motor was a good decision. I started to get a small
one, but the big foot controlled electric motor will move the boat at warp speed when I want to cover some
distance without getting on the gas motor. It will move me upstream against a considerable current. I had
to mount two pieces of pressure treated lumber to the bow seat of the boat so the motor would drop correctly
over the front of the boat and lock into place. Rigging a small boat requires some unknown processes that you
won't know about until you get into the project. Don't be surprised by anything.
Fish finders are a big deal whatever size or kind of small boat that you fish from. Rigging
a small boatwould not be complete until some kind of fish finder is on board. Nearly every model now shows
bottom contour, detects fish, and shows the surface temp. Anything from handheld models to high dollar color
GPS units are available. A basic model will work for most all small boats fishing in fresh water. I have a
Humminbird 525 on the rear seat of my boat that faces the motor operator for easy reading while running.

The other Humminbird (565) is on the bow seat with the transducer mounted to the
trolling motor for fine tuning locations while fishing. NOTE: When you buy more than one fish finder, get
the same type that will work from the same transducers. In case one goes bad, the other can replace it in a
pinch.

I have batteries and anchors both fore and aft in my boat tucked up next to the
bow and stern seats. One battery provides power for my rear fish finder and auxiliary power for
anything I might want to hook up to it. It also serves as a backup batter for the trolling motor. I
almost always have both anchors on board. Any time I leave one at home thinking I won't need
it.......you guessed it. These are big 20 lb anchors that will hold the boat securely under most
circumstances including anchored in the Arkansas river. They also help me to stay still in shallow
water where nothing is available to tie off to.

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The picture below shows my one mounted seat on the boat. I chose to put
just one on to save some maneuvering room. When rigging a small boat,there just is no such
thing as a perfect seat. This one is no exception. I mounted it to be able to have an elevated
position for both still fishing comfort as well as for moving along with my trolling motor,
bass fishing. It is what it is. I have to stumble around it to get from from one end of
the boat to the other. It does not go lower t(only higher) han shown for more stability in
rough water. People can't sit in it when I'm running the gas motor. But it's the best all
around choice for what I do, and how I fish. You'll notice I didn't put a deck on this boat.
The reason is that in a boat this size and weight, I generally consider them to be generally
unsafe, with centers of gravity that beg people to fall off the boat. Now I know that from a
seated position, a person can bass fish nicely from a makeshift deck on small jon boats, but
with the variety of fishing that I do, I would spend more time pulling myself back in the boat
than fishing. So, this is my mount, such as it is.

Below are a few miscellaneous items that fill out my small boat
rigging. A paddle (don't ever go out in a small boat without one), net (for huge fish),
a rod holder made from some pvc strapped to a piece of galvnized conduit (this is
attached to the rib of the boat by a few strap ties so it is not permanent), and a fire
extinquisher. An air horn, that completes my legal requirements is in the bilge
area.

By now, in many of these pictures, you've noticed the bare
plywood in the bottom of the boat. I don't mount any more permanent items in a
small boat than I have to and that includes a floor. If you know you will have
tto move around a lot in a jon boat, something flat to walk on is essential.
But going to elaborat measures to permanently install a floor is not necessary.
The two pieces of plywood in the floor of my boat are construction grade 3/4"
plywood cut to fit across all but the last rib in each floor section I left the
area between the last rib and seat uncovered so I could tuck in the batteries
and a few other items without them sliding in either direction in the boat. And
I did not attach the plywood to the ribs - just laid it in. Why? Do you ever
drop small objects in a boat? Where do you think they will go? Correct - they
will go right down under the plywood between the ribs. So if needed, I can just
lift the plywood to retrieve objects if necessary. I expect the plywood to last
an entire fishing season (about 6 months). When it deteriorates enough, I'll
throw it away and get some new ones.

So, those are the basics of rigging a small
boat in my world. I have it set up for how I fish, and for my
preferences and comfort. But I'm sure you have some different
ideas. Please feel free to let me know about your small boat
rigging in the "Visitor Articles" section to the left. I'd like to
see your boats and hear your ideas.
Here's
to your good fishing ~ Mark
Rogers
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